Tiny Takeout

They don’t make ’em like they used to
probably because then
they weren’t the same people who make ’em now.
Back a few years ago
here in the City
before Mexican was made by Mexicans
I went to these hole-in-the-wall places on Eight Avenue,
Ninth Avenue, Tenth
looking for cheap quesadillas,
just after I discovered them.

This was the start of my experience
with Mexican in the City
before Mexican was made by Mexicans
and I didn’t know what I was doing
but I knew what I liked
and what I liked was the same
from all these tiny takeout holes-in-the-wall:
circular ten-inch tortillas
binding together chicken and cheese
with salsa dribbled on quarters
of the circle I received.
Sour cream was available
but ignored.

These were good foods
served fast and cheap
by the Chinese shopkeepers
who owned and managed
all of these barrio holes-in-the-wall locations.
I would go as long as the salsa tubs held out.

I don’t remember when these takeout taco spots disappeared
back in the day
and the Mexican scene became more authentic.
I never got a taco from any one of them then
or ever after.

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About Jonathan Berger

I used to write quite a bit more.
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